Those pesky Chacma Baboons (Papio ursinus) that had fun with our tents yesterday, were back, but in a much calmer mood.  They hadn't yet left their night-time trees when we passed on our way to hitch a ride on some Mokoros.  The interesting thing about a troop of Baboons like these, is that all the members are related to each other, unlike the herd species, where safety in numbers overcomes the reticence to share with anyone except blood relatives.  Baboons are most strongly driven by kin selection, rather than altruism, as I remember from a term paper I wrote as an undergraduate many years ago.



The dominant male sits rather aloofly from the rest, carefully surveying the landscape for signs of predators before leading them down from the trees.



Even though I could sit all day and watch Baboons and their mischievous antics, we had an appointment to make, and we didn't want to miss our ride, so we left the Baboons to their own devices, and arrived at the edge of the water to find the Mokoros and guides. In typical African timing, we leisurely got started about an hour after arriving, so haste had not really been necessary.



Once we departed we understood why time wasn't critical ......... we were instantly transported into a timeless era of slow gliding through the water, gentle movements (otherwise you would capsize and swimming with the Crocs wasn't recommended) and tranquil vistas that would calm the most troubled city soul.  It really forced you to look at the small details as they floated past serenely, and although we didn't see any Hippo or Crocs, the bird and insect life stepped to the fore.



This Fish Eagle (Haliaeetus vocifer) soared above us for a few minutes, disdainfully disinterested in us, while he targeted his next juicy meal, finning its way though the channels of the Delta below.



The hour or two being polled through the channels was over too fast, but now we were to see the other side of waterborne viewing, the speed boats.  After having silently traversed these channels slowly and calmly, I wondered what the point was in going by motor boat?



We soon discovered that 'Speed' boat was no euphemism.  30km/h or more in channels that were often no more than the boat's width is adrenaline fast, and we soon were out of the channel and into the more open lagoon, where Hippo abound.   We saw a small Croc and Cormorants, Waders and many other birds, but no Hippo.



Then suddenly, there they were, watching as if to say 'We know you're there ... now go home'.  Given the speed they can move in water, I was instantly glad we were watching them from a speed boat and not a slow and fragile mokoro, however traditional it may be.  Sometimes it pays to be prudent.



This was our last night in 3rd Bridge, tomorrow we were due to leave for Khwai, a scant 2 to 3 hours away and just inside the North Gate of Moremi.

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Permalink | Posted by: Ian at Sunday, September 12th, 2004 17:31:52 | Location: Moremi, Botswana | Category:  Botswana Safari 

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