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The Magical Baobab

Monday 6th September, 2004
Yesterday we arrived at Kubu Island, home to 100's of magical Baobab trees.  Magical, not only because they are aesthetically so outlandish that they are beautiful, but in legend and reality they are equally mystical.  Who could imagine setting up a complete campsite in the shade of the trunk of only one tree ?

Image:The Magical Baobab

Partly because the young and adult trees differ so greatly, the Bushmen people believe that the Baobabs crash to earth fully formed, embedding themselves in the ground, and when they die, they simply disappear.  Their legend has it that their god, Thora, taking a dislike to the tree in paradise, ripped it out and threw it over the wall, sending it crashing upside down into the earth way below, hence its name, 'The upside-down tree'.

Image:The Magical Baobab

When the tree dies, it rots from the inside, standing strongly until it collapses one day in a pile of fibres, little wonder that the Bushmen believe that it simply disappears.

In life however, the bark fibres are used to make rope, mats, waterproof hats, baskets and cloth which is why in populated areas baobabs are at huge risk from debarking, even though they often regenerate the bark.  This tree that can live to 3000 years of age, can be killed by ring-barking it. The fruits are rich in tartaric acid and vitamin C, making a very refreshing drink after soaking in water.  The leaves can be boiled and eaten like spinach, and are used medicinally to treat kidney, bladder disease and asthma.

The trees host complete ecosystems, from the browsers like Elephant who eats bark and leaves, through to Baboons, Bush Baby's and Fruit bats and countless scores of insects, lizards and birds.  These three animal classes below were all on the same tree (or rocks it was growing over).
Image:The Magical Baobab

A lone Baobab sentinel stands on look-out across the infinite barren salts of the Makgadigadi pan.  The band of darkness is a little lingering moisture from the previous summer's rain.  Enough moisture for some damselflies to be found on the island.

Image:The Magical Baobab

This is my favourite view and photo from Kubu.  Standing right on the summit of the island, looking south, surrounded by the calm seas of salt and dust.

Image:The Magical Baobab

Finally, as the sun began to set, the baobabs, rocks and salt pan took on this indescribable colour, that, no matter what colour space or temperature I worked with, I was just unable to capture to my satisfaction.  What a place for that sunset drink !

Image:The Magical Baobab

[Complete Safari and wildlife photo index]

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